Milan, 22th September, 2024.
Inanimate matter, earth, the fury of natural forces, stereometries, clay, bronze, iron.
Francesca Liberatore’s references for SS2025 look towards sculpture and plastic arts in both constructions and prints. The profound work of master Bruno Liberatore, the designer’s father and her source of inspiration, is now dynamically expressed in the movement of bodies—those very human figures absent from his works.
A reunion, then, between man and nature in a middle ground—fashion—defined by precise, pyramidal cuts, bordered in contrast on post-modern crinolines. The Giangiacomo Feltrinelli Foundation was chosen by the designer as the perfect setting for this narrative.
The jackets are impeccable, with straight lines and supported shoulders. The leading material is cotton, a symbol of nature’s resilience and ancient memory. Sometimes it provides structure, other times it wraps around in layered dresses. Applications and embroidery on tulle resemble inclusions of biological elements merging in symbiosis, bearing witness to the cult pieces created over time by the designer. The brand’s iconic bag persists, made up of fine leathers recovered thanks to the ongoing collaboration with Lineapelle. A misty palette is enlivened by acidic, almost technological tones, like flashes amidst streaks of grey and burgundy. Contained silhouettes, softness, and pleats in Oriental-style pants paired with masculine blazers, bubble dresses, and skirts with antique, romantic shirts. Fitted fourreau dresses printed in earthy tones flow lightly to the ankle, becoming sophisticated in combinations of turquoise, cobalt, and brown.
“Bruno Liberatore brings forth and revives what nature already contains, centuries of culture and history, that mysterious core of the past that, like cells, encloses our future.”
FURIO COLOMBO
“…goes beyond what nature offers us in the form of images to admire and contemplate…
…he possesses the phenomenal gift of being able to perceive the movement of inanimate matter.”
“Read the sculptures as if they were stone books, and you will grasp the profound meaning of the events that happen in the world.” KUZMIN
